I Did Amsterdam Completely Sober — Here’s How It Went

Amsterdam has a bit of a reputation. Between the widely available adult entertainment and code-named coffeeshops on every corner, it’s not exactly the poster child city for sobriety. That said, when Heineken, one of the largest beer companies in the world, invited me out there for a sober-friendly weekend, I was intrigued.

I’ve been on a bit of a sober-curious journey for a while now. As a health editor, I’m constantly bombarded with new studies about the harmful effects alcohol can have on the body, and have been curious to find low-ABV and alcohol-free alternatives to my favorite cocktails.

It’s already somewhat difficult in New York, a city where the primary social scene revolves around bar hopping, nightcaps, and after-work drinks. But I’d never taken an international trip while sober and considered Amsterdam an even greater challenge.

Day one in Amsterdam was met with skepticism. Within an hour of my deplaning, I found myself in conversation with a few other travelers — repeat tourists unlike myself — eager to get their hands on space cakes, aka cannabis-infused edibles and an alleged Amsterdam-must.

As I walked out of the airport and into the shuttle filled with other editors, all in attendance to celebrate Heineken 0.0, the brand’s alcohol-free brew, I became a little more optimistic. Several of them had been to Amsterdam before and while, yes, they admitted there was plenty to do for those who imbibe, I’d also find myself deeply immersed in a culture outside of drinking — all I had to do was look. Don’t believe them? Let me share a few of my own takeaways.

For starters, alcohol is big, but it isn’t everything. We stayed in a hotel in the central part of Amsterdam, overlooking the Amstel River positioned in the city’s old merchant district. A seven-minute walk in any direction and I’d hit a street full of bars. But even the most divey establishments were able to make a delicious mocktail — and with pride. I can confidently say I’ve never had a better non-alcoholic mojito, freshly slapped mint leaves included.

Even at Heineken’s oldest brewery, The Heineken Experience, and its research and design center, there was a palpable excitement from the brewmasters and tour guides about the alcohol-free movement. My favorite part of the tours: the innovation lab, where you can taste the brand’s latest off-market creations. That’s where I was able combine Heineken’s 0.0 with its flavored foam toppings on tap. (H/t to whoever invented the guava one. I’m still dreaming about it!)

And according to brand representatives, the company is looking for even more ways to satisfy health-conscious consumers including a zero-calorie, zero-sugar beer alternative. Translation: people are drinking less alcohol, and even in Amsterdam, a city known for its vibrant beer culture, people are looking for ways to support a more balanced lifestyle.

That said, when evening hit, I worried that nightlife would inevitably revolve around alcohol and binge drinking. And while, yes, the streets were packed with plenty of bar hoppers, coffeeshops and the red-light district seemed to be the main attraction — the latter of which, especially through sober eyes, you’ll never forget. Even so, just as popular as the voyeuristic entertainment is the beauty of a nighttime stroll along the city’s cobblestone streets and riverfronts. After group dinners, I’d find myself admiring the architecture as late-night tour groups passed me by and couples walked hand in hand along the Amstel River.

One night, I noticed carved stone tablets placed above many of the older row homes: a pig here, a pair of scissors on another, a ship atop one more. Turns out, those are called gable stones, or gevelstenen, and were traditionally used to identify a building’s purpose or the occupation of its owner. So, a pig for a butcher, scissors for a barber, a ship for a sailor. That’s something I never would have noticed with a more clouded mind.

The reality is, in Amsterdam, there’s beauty in the simplistic and in the city itself. Plus, the cultural opportunities are unmatched: the Van Gogh Museum, the Rijksmuseum, the Anne Frank House, the Dutch National Opera. I was only there for three nights, so I knew I wouldn’t have time to see them all, but the Anne Frank House was a must.

Grateful for the absence of a hangover, I was able to make the most of my mornings, stepping out to take in the flower market, pop in an actual coffee shop, taste test expensive cheese, and check out one of the city’s many duck stores for a souvenir (it’s a thing).

I can confidently say that you can do Amsterdam sober and not only enjoy it, but be dying to go back. Having only consumed good food, water, NA beer, and countless tasty mocktails, I went home on all-natural high and memories I’ll actually remember. You’ll be amazed at what you can capture without a blurred lens.

Alexis Jones (she/her) is the senior health and fitness editor at PS. In her seven years of editorial experience, Alexis has developed passions and areas of expertise around mental health, women’s health and fitness, racial and ethnic disparities in healthcare, and chronic conditions. Prior to joining PS, she was the senior editor at Health magazine. Her other bylines can be found at Women’s Health, Prevention, Marie Claire, and more.